North of Great Exuma Cay lies a series of smaller cays stretching up towards Nassau. Some of these are privately owned (Musha Cay, for example, by illusionist David Copperfield and which can be rented for $350,000 per week) but most are uninhabited and share the same features of pristine white beaches and turquoise seas. On one side of the chain is the Exuma Sound (effectively an extension of the Atlantic) at over 1500m deep. On the other side the Exuma Bank, only 4m deep. The sailing experience is incredibly different depending on which side you sail, both in terms of the sea state but, more importantly, the necessity to monitor instruments all the time to avoid running aground.
Yesterday we cut into the Exuma Bank and headed north to the Staniel Cay area, home of the Thunderball grotto (think James Bond) and swimming pigs! These feral pigs inhabit a small island called Big Major Spot and swim out to visiting boats for food .... up to 100 metres off-shore. We saved up lettuce, cabbage and bread crusts to go and feed them from the dinghy. This morning we headed towards the beach where they hang out and they spotted us from quite a distance and started swimming out to us. I tried throwing a cabbage leaf into the sea but that was no good: They wanted feeding straight into their mouths. Cucumber chunks proved very popular with the dinghy nudged for more. One of the pigs was really big - and could swim very well, although not as well as his smaller, pinker "cousin". All in all, a unique experience!
Just after we anchored yesterday, I saw what I thought was a manta ray in the water, swimming towards us. It turns out it was a nurse shark, and quite a big one at that, that swam under the stern of Jay Jay and slowly mosied away towards the nearby reef. No swimming for me ... but Paul plans on going shark-hunting later.
Having bought a tiller extension for the dinghy, we have taken to travelling around standing up. Not for the feint hearted in choppy waters, but at least it means we get to our destination with dry clothes .... always a bonus. And excellent for the balance although I'm sure one of us will go overboard before long!
27 Mar 2013
[Cruise News] Stop press news!!!
We had to put a blanket on the bed last night and are wearing our Jay Jay zip-up hoodies today because it's quite cool! What are we doing here? What's happening? Apparently there has been a sudden thaw of the Artic ice-cap which has pushed cold fronts south into mainland US and even down into the Bahamas. So we're back to northerly winds for the next few days but the locals think it will be warmer again tomorrow. They better be right or we're sailing south!!!!
25 Mar 2013
[Cruise News] Georgetown, Great Exuma Island, Bahamas
Yes, we've finally made it to the Bahamas, thank goodness. I think I'd begun to believe we would never leave Puerto Rico but after 6 days of sailing, along the coast of the Dominican Republic and Haiti, and with two overnight stops in the Turks and Caicos islands, we're here. The "weather window" wasn't as good as we hoped / was forecast with us having to motor sail for just over half the time but it was sunny and warm and the seas were easy. So all in all, a good trip and it's been good to undertake a longer passage again in readiness for the sail to Bermuda next month.
Our two overnight stops in the T&C were at deserted sandy islands (Big Sand Cay and Frenchman,'s Cay) where we were the only boat around, As we approached Big Sand Cay, a nature reserve, it was obvious the bird resident didn't like the idea of sharing their night-time roosting site with humans. They didn't exactly dive-bomb us but made a lot of noise as we sailed through the moonlit waters approaching the island. It was pretty surreal as we could hear all this noise but see nothing.
We sailed across the Caicos Bank to move from one cay to another - the most clear waters we have seen to date. Despite the sea all around this area being very deep (think kilometres and not metres) the bank itself is only a few metres deep and we had to pick our way across negotiating the myriad coral heads which were easily identifiable against the white sand bottom. It will prove to be good experience for exploring all the Bahamian Cays on the Bahama Bank. As the charts state, "Visual Piloting Rules" have to apply to ensure not running aground.
So now we have 3 weeks to enjoy the Bahamas. Not as long as we'd originally hoped but long enough to get a real flavour for the country.
Our two overnight stops in the T&C were at deserted sandy islands (Big Sand Cay and Frenchman,'s Cay) where we were the only boat around, As we approached Big Sand Cay, a nature reserve, it was obvious the bird resident didn't like the idea of sharing their night-time roosting site with humans. They didn't exactly dive-bomb us but made a lot of noise as we sailed through the moonlit waters approaching the island. It was pretty surreal as we could hear all this noise but see nothing.
We sailed across the Caicos Bank to move from one cay to another - the most clear waters we have seen to date. Despite the sea all around this area being very deep (think kilometres and not metres) the bank itself is only a few metres deep and we had to pick our way across negotiating the myriad coral heads which were easily identifiable against the white sand bottom. It will prove to be good experience for exploring all the Bahamian Cays on the Bahama Bank. As the charts state, "Visual Piloting Rules" have to apply to ensure not running aground.
So now we have 3 weeks to enjoy the Bahamas. Not as long as we'd originally hoped but long enough to get a real flavour for the country.
19 Mar 2013
[Cruise News] About to depart for the Bahamas at last
Well I'm pleased to report that we're finally weighing anchor and setting off for the Bahamas. The weather window looks good and I can't wait to be on our way! Bahamas here we come!!!!
Sadly the end to our stay in Puerto Rico has been blighted by me being pick-pocketed at the St Patrick's Day festivities, not by native Puerto Ricans I hasten to add who have been nothing but kind and helpful resolving our situation. But we lost over $600 of cash, all our credit cards and our driving licenses in the incident. I can picture the people who did it but won't mention their nationality to avoid creating an international incident! They made a show of being friendly and interested in what we are doing and I was taken in by it. Anyway, learning points from the experience and we have managed to get things sorted helped by a wonderful American couple we have got friendly with (Becky and Joe) who have ferried us around in their hire car, and two charming Puerto Ricans (Miguel and Rey) who have been sympathetic and helpful in communicating with the local police to file the theft report, and gave me a big hug to boot. It kind of restores your faith in the human race.
I'm really looking forward to the passage to the Bahamas and to getting there. Will be back online in around 5 days all being well.
Sadly the end to our stay in Puerto Rico has been blighted by me being pick-pocketed at the St Patrick's Day festivities, not by native Puerto Ricans I hasten to add who have been nothing but kind and helpful resolving our situation. But we lost over $600 of cash, all our credit cards and our driving licenses in the incident. I can picture the people who did it but won't mention their nationality to avoid creating an international incident! They made a show of being friendly and interested in what we are doing and I was taken in by it. Anyway, learning points from the experience and we have managed to get things sorted helped by a wonderful American couple we have got friendly with (Becky and Joe) who have ferried us around in their hire car, and two charming Puerto Ricans (Miguel and Rey) who have been sympathetic and helpful in communicating with the local police to file the theft report, and gave me a big hug to boot. It kind of restores your faith in the human race.
I'm really looking forward to the passage to the Bahamas and to getting there. Will be back online in around 5 days all being well.
17 Mar 2013
[Cruise News] Back in B-b-boqueron!
We gave up on motoring east along the south coast of Puerto Rico on Thursday and decided to return to the west end of the island, probably the sensible option for the passage to the Bahamas.
Weekend is party time in Boqueron and this weekend sees the celebration of St Patrick's Day with a parade and lots of fun and festivities. It was lovely arriving back in Boqueron as people we knew were still here and pleased to see us .... always nice to see a friendly face. Since we were here midweek, one of the oldest buildings lining the waterfront (a lop-sided, clapboard building painted turquoise) has burnt down. A shame for the town but it's also knocked out the internet too .... a real hassle for cruisers!
Oh, and by the way, we're leaving tomorrow all being well. At last!
Weekend is party time in Boqueron and this weekend sees the celebration of St Patrick's Day with a parade and lots of fun and festivities. It was lovely arriving back in Boqueron as people we knew were still here and pleased to see us .... always nice to see a friendly face. Since we were here midweek, one of the oldest buildings lining the waterfront (a lop-sided, clapboard building painted turquoise) has burnt down. A shame for the town but it's also knocked out the internet too .... a real hassle for cruisers!
Oh, and by the way, we're leaving tomorrow all being well. At last!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)