After 11 days at sea, beating into winds and waves, we arrived in the sunshine into Falmouth on Thursday, very glad to make landfall. The crossing from the Azores, whilst no problem, was an uncomfortable one with us heeling over at 30 degrees much of the way. I can't tell you how frustrating it becomes to be at an angle for days on end ... cooking, sleeping, bathing, even just moving around the boat. Needless to say we are all covered in bruises!
As we sailed futher north, it got colder and colder at nightime. The first week we stayed in the cockpit on watch 24/7 but the last few days so us retreat inside at night, only coming up every 10 minutes or so to do a 360 degree scan for other shipping and then back down below. We had AIS (Automatic Identification System) running which sounds an alarm when any commercial shipping comes within 24 minutes travel of us so we were well prepared for avoidance measures. Fortunately the sun shone just about every day and so it was pleasant sitting in the cockpit out of the wind.
I've noticed that the more we sail the less we actually hand-steer, instead letting the auto-helm take the strain. Whether this is because we're covering much greater distances or the novelty of helming has worn off a little, I don't know, or maybe we're just getting lazy in our old age!
Falmouth was a delightful place to arrive back in the UK. Not only was it sunny and warm, but we enjoyed excellent fish & chips (something we'd all been looking forward to - how sad is that!) and I loved pottering around the boutiques. With little wind on Friday, and what there was still coming from the east, we motor-sailed along to Fowey in the afternoon and spent a very pleasant evening on a mooring buoy with a bottle of wine watching the sun set. A German cruise liner arrived at 7am on Saturday morning waking everyone up so we were ashore by 9am and spent a couple of hours reacquainting ourselves with this charming town.
We motor-sailed back to Plymouth that afternoon arriving just gone four o'clock. Paul was even thwarted being able to sail into the Sound - the wind was still on the nose! So after over 10,000 miles at sea, crossing the Atlantic twice, Jay Jay is now back in her berth at Plymouth Yacht Haven and we're at home again. It's been the most fabulous adventure: A real sense of achievement, an opportunity to revisit some favourite places in the Caribbean and explore new countries too, and the chance to be part of the cruising community and meet interesting people from all around the world. Real life is going to feel rather dull after all that I'm afraid. Roll on the next adventure!
And finally, a word of thanks to all the blog readers for your interest in our trip and words of encouragement along the way. We're incredibly lucky to be able to undertake these sailing adventures, but a big part of our enjoyment is keeping in touch with friends and happenings at home. Thank you!
9 Jun 2013
24 May 2013
[Cruise News] Angra Do Heroism, Terceria, Azores
After a very enjoyable week in Horta, having Georgie join us, visiting the neighbouring Pico Island and touring Faial itself with sailing friends Karen & Nigel, we departed Horta yesterday for the 80 mile sail across to Terceira. As ever the forecast winds which would have made sailing possible didn't materialise so we ended up motor-sailing virtually all the way arriving just before midnight. We sailed along the channel between Sao Jorge and Graciosa, two more of the Azorean islands. The north coast of Sao Jorge was all steep cliffs with deep, wooded ravines cut into them we presume the relics of volcanic activity also. It's one of the least populated of the islands and it was easy to see why: Not exactly very accessible!
It was Georgie's first passage at sea (she's been a dinghy sailor to date) but she proved to be a natural on the helm, sure-footed and very keen to help and learn. Luckily for her we saw whales and dolphins, including some rather unusual white spotted dolphins with a very tall dorsal fin, and apparently called Grampo Risso's dolphins. We were all tired by the time we got here and didn't get a great nights sleep thanks to the swell entering the marina. So this morning, after Paul had checked us is with Customs & Immigration, we moved further into the marina and are hoping for a better night tonight.
We're actually berthed in the marina at Angra Do Heroismo, a town awarded World Heritage Site status by UNESCO back in the 1980s. We've been exploring the old town for the rest of today and have all really liked it. Georgie and I have indulged in a little shopping and we've also all enjoyed the ambience of the place and friendliness of the people. Architecturally it's very pretty with a lot of balconies and properties painted in pastel colours. Definitely worth a visit.
Unbeknown to us, Terceira has a tradition of bull-fighting. Unlike in Spain where the poor animals are skewered and can't escape an arena, here the bulls are left to run the streets very much like in Pamplona. They have the end of their horns squared off and most spectators watch from the balconies of properties lining the streets, but a surprising number of men bait the bulls and are lucky to avoid being gored. We're off to watch one such spectacle tomorrow .... from a safe distance!
It was Georgie's first passage at sea (she's been a dinghy sailor to date) but she proved to be a natural on the helm, sure-footed and very keen to help and learn. Luckily for her we saw whales and dolphins, including some rather unusual white spotted dolphins with a very tall dorsal fin, and apparently called Grampo Risso's dolphins. We were all tired by the time we got here and didn't get a great nights sleep thanks to the swell entering the marina. So this morning, after Paul had checked us is with Customs & Immigration, we moved further into the marina and are hoping for a better night tonight.
We're actually berthed in the marina at Angra Do Heroismo, a town awarded World Heritage Site status by UNESCO back in the 1980s. We've been exploring the old town for the rest of today and have all really liked it. Georgie and I have indulged in a little shopping and we've also all enjoyed the ambience of the place and friendliness of the people. Architecturally it's very pretty with a lot of balconies and properties painted in pastel colours. Definitely worth a visit.
Unbeknown to us, Terceira has a tradition of bull-fighting. Unlike in Spain where the poor animals are skewered and can't escape an arena, here the bulls are left to run the streets very much like in Pamplona. They have the end of their horns squared off and most spectators watch from the balconies of properties lining the streets, but a surprising number of men bait the bulls and are lucky to avoid being gored. We're off to watch one such spectacle tomorrow .... from a safe distance!
22 May 2013
[Cruise News] Tour of Faial Island
We decided to hire a car today with fellow ARC 2012 sailors Karen and Nigel to explore Faial. We'd been told about the incredible geography of the island and were keen to witness it first hand.
The Azores are of course tips of volcanes sticking out of the Atlantic. A lot of these are dormant but do erupt reasonably regulalry in volcanic terms. Pico Mountain last erupted 15 years ago whereas the main volcano on Faial hasn't erupted since 1957. The result of this volcanic activity is a very dramatic landscape with barren plains intersected by lava flows at Capelinhos - a real lunar landscape at the western end of the island, and home to a still-working lighthouse. In the centre of the island is an enormous crater, approximately 2km wide and 400m deep, called Caldeira.
There is a well-known 10-volcanoes walk on the island covering a distance of 27km which we didn't have time (or the inclination!) to do but it just shows how many volcanoes are present on such a small island.
One disappointment for me was that the hydrangea bushes that cover a lot of the island weren't quite in bloom, Oh well, there always has to be a reason to revisit a place!
The Azores are of course tips of volcanes sticking out of the Atlantic. A lot of these are dormant but do erupt reasonably regulalry in volcanic terms. Pico Mountain last erupted 15 years ago whereas the main volcano on Faial hasn't erupted since 1957. The result of this volcanic activity is a very dramatic landscape with barren plains intersected by lava flows at Capelinhos - a real lunar landscape at the western end of the island, and home to a still-working lighthouse. In the centre of the island is an enormous crater, approximately 2km wide and 400m deep, called Caldeira.
There is a well-known 10-volcanoes walk on the island covering a distance of 27km which we didn't have time (or the inclination!) to do but it just shows how many volcanoes are present on such a small island.
One disappointment for me was that the hydrangea bushes that cover a lot of the island weren't quite in bloom, Oh well, there always has to be a reason to revisit a place!
21 May 2013
[Cruise News] Pico Island
We caught the local ferry across to neighbouring Pico Island today having been advised it was a local festival day (Spiritos Do Sao Santos) in honour of Patron Saint of Sailors so we thought it was appropriate we attend. Pico is the second largest of the Azorean islands and is home to the highest mountain in Portugal - Pico Mountain, a volcano. We took a taxi up to the visitor's centre but sadly everything was shrouded in low cloud and so we couldn't see a lot! So we retreated back down to the town square in Madalena, claimed a table in the square and partook of beers and wine until the festival proceedings started. These seemed to comprise of a procession through the streets of local ladies carrying paniers of bread on their heads for blessing and distribution to the poor, plus brass bands and local dignatories. It proved to be a very pleasant afternoon, expecially given the wine was only 1 Euro a glass and was pretty decent.
As we returned to the ferry port, we were all given a loaf of sweet bread as well .... obviously not looking like wealthy yacht owners today!!
As we returned to the ferry port, we were all given a loaf of sweet bread as well .... obviously not looking like wealthy yacht owners today!!
[Cruise News] Horta Marina
We've enjoyed a lazy few days here in Horta, exploring a bit of the town but mainly relaxing - Paul was weary after his crossing. Two fellow British ARC sailors who we got very friendly with in Bermuda and left Bermuda 3 days after Paul did (and I have kept in email contact with throughout their passage to the Azores) arrived on Saturday evening. They did the crossing in half a day less than Jay Jay but their boat (Persephone) is a racing yacht so I think Paul et al did very well. They had to be towed the last 40 miles because their engine failed but fortunately another yacht was close by and came to their rescue.
We offered to prepare dinner for them on their arrival day and spent a great evening together, hitting the various flavoured rums we have on board after midnight. They returned the favour last night but we did forgo the rum! We're all off to Pico Island on the ferry today as it's a festival day and has been recommended to us.
Georgina, our crew member, arrived yesterday and seems very excited and enthusiastic about the trip. It will be great to have a third pair of hands and eyes on board for the crossing - around 1500 miles so 12 days or more at sea. Looking at the forecasts, it should be reasonable providing we head due north for the first couple of days ... but we know how (in)accurate the forecasts can be so the exact route will no doubt develop as we progress. At least we have plenty of food and water on board so should be fine in that regard.
We offered to prepare dinner for them on their arrival day and spent a great evening together, hitting the various flavoured rums we have on board after midnight. They returned the favour last night but we did forgo the rum! We're all off to Pico Island on the ferry today as it's a festival day and has been recommended to us.
Georgina, our crew member, arrived yesterday and seems very excited and enthusiastic about the trip. It will be great to have a third pair of hands and eyes on board for the crossing - around 1500 miles so 12 days or more at sea. Looking at the forecasts, it should be reasonable providing we head due north for the first couple of days ... but we know how (in)accurate the forecasts can be so the exact route will no doubt develop as we progress. At least we have plenty of food and water on board so should be fine in that regard.
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