Having been so enthusiastic about the whales breeching a few days ago, we were sailing up the west coast of Guadeloupe when I spotted another whale, this time VERY close by. I noticed the spout from its blowhole, but even though I should have yelled "Thar she blows!" all I could do was shout "Whale!" Anyway, it was a large humpback this time, about 50 feet long, swimming in its normal arching way, cresting out of the water and then arching its way over to bring its majestic tail flukes vertical to show us the white colouring on the underside. It passed within 30 metres of the boat in a parallel track but in the opposite direction. Sheer magic.
On our way up to Antigua, we passed by the island of Montserrat (actually closer than we would have preferred, but the wind and current took us further across the channel to the west than we wanted) where the enormous volcano sat smoking and smouldering ominously. In fact, the only cloud formation over the whole island was compliments of the steam venting from more than one point on the crater. The sheer size of the lava flow that spewed out of the top and ran down the sides to the sea is immense, and the area of land it smothered before running out of solid ground was huge. So many superlatives, but seeing is understanding. Another image for the geographical memory.
Even though we have visited (and passed through as an air transportation hub) Antigua before, I have to say that as we approached the southern coastline of the island yesterday, neither of us ever dreamt that we would ever sail there under our own steam. The last time we were on the island, we had never met Nicola and Mike, and certainly never expected to have the opportunity that we have had to explore and experience the true Caribbean. Funny old life isn't it?
Here in Antigua, we are in the middle of Falmouth Harbour where we are nestled quietly at anchor. For the first time in ages, we have attached the outboard to the dinghy as we have some serious distances to travel to clear customs, buy food, visit boatyards et cetera. We have chosen instead where possible and practical to row ourselves around, saving energy and the planet as it were, and adding to our fitness levels as we ply the oars to drive us from point to point. Oh, and by the way, we aren't perfect - we also scrounge lifts from friends with serious dinghies and outboards too!
11 Mar 2011
7 Mar 2011
[Cruise News] Bourg des Saintes, Les Saintes
Well it's carnival time throughout the Caribbean in the run up to Mardi Gras which is tomorrow. Apparently the big day can fall on any Tuesday between February 3 and March 9 depending on the date of Easter. Carnival celebration starts on January 6, the Twelfth Night and picks up speed until Midnight on Mardi Gras, the day before Ash Wednesday so everyone has built up to a nice crescendo by now.
Yesterday in Bourg des Saintes saw vibrantly coloured and very loud street processions starting mid-afternoon and carrying on until late. Everyone was dressed up and banging drums / playing guitars with a distinctly Caribbean rhythm for all they were worth and made for a great spectacle .... very atmospheric and a lot of fun. We're not sure what the programme is for today but are sure it will be lively and we'll go along and join in with the carnival atmosphere and get photos to show everyone. Should be a good day ....
Yesterday in Bourg des Saintes saw vibrantly coloured and very loud street processions starting mid-afternoon and carrying on until late. Everyone was dressed up and banging drums / playing guitars with a distinctly Caribbean rhythm for all they were worth and made for a great spectacle .... very atmospheric and a lot of fun. We're not sure what the programme is for today but are sure it will be lively and we'll go along and join in with the carnival atmosphere and get photos to show everyone. Should be a good day ....
[Captains Blog] Les Saintes
Just got to tell you about yesterday's event - as we were sailing from Guadeloupe to Les Saintes, I was on the helm talking to Debra when I saw a massive plume of water off to the port side. "Wow, what on earth was that?" I exclaimed. Debra was off her seat in an instant. "Where?" she said. "There! Look, it's a whale and it's breeching!" Sure enough this gigantic whale leapt out of the water, hovered in the air for a few seconds, then crashed back down onto the water creating another tremendous splash of foaming white spray. Then another one rose up beside it and did the same thing. The two whales were having a great time and performed twice more for us, I was transfixed, unable to tear my eyes away. It was simply magical for me, and I think we had seen a once-in-a-lifetime event.
4 Mar 2011
[Cruise News] Port a Pietre, Guadeloupe
Having dropped off Fiona and Andrew yesterday in Dominica (more of which later) we sailed north to Les Saintes, a collection of small islands belonging to and just south of Guadeloupe, with the plan of spending the weekend there. We were pleased to see our Canadian friends whom we last crossed paths with in Martinique were already at anchor and looked forward to catching up with them over a rum cocktail or too. And then disaster: the windlass that is used to drop the anchor wasn't working, and so we were unable to anchor. Whilst I motored around, Paul and Michael (the Canadian) tried to identify the problem but to no avail and so we had to plead with Les Saintes Yacht Club to allow us to tie up to their water buoy ... not something they usually permit but it was an emergency and so they relented given it was so late in the day.
As Paul has mentioned on his blog, we're both feeling very despondent with all the technology problems we've had to survive on the trip, and of course the two impacts and continuing bad conditions. We know that boats go wrong and anchors drag ... in fact sailors should have that expectation ... but even long-term cruisers we've got to know out here think we've had far more than our share of bad luck. Sadly our indomitable spirit is starting to flag a bit but "c'est la vie" I guess .... a bit of French seeing as we're effectively in France at the moment.
On the positive side of things, we enjoyed a great 9 days with Fiona and Andrew and were sad to see them leave. Probably the highlight for us all was the trek to Victoria Falls in Dominica, a challenging adventure that involved crossing a fast-flowing river 5 times each way, leaping from boulder to boulder. Not always enjoyable at the time but a real sense of achievement at the end of it. And then we had lunch in a Rasta's shack ... eating a delicious vegetable stew (Rastas are vegetarians) out of calabash bowls with a coconut shell spoon, accompanied by pan-fried balou (a local fish) ... all very authentic and tasty.
So now we're continuing north to Antigua once the electrics are fixed where we've got a few weeks to try to sort out the paintwork repairs caused in the two anchor-dragging impacts. The boat's insurers are not playing ball, offering only 25% of the lowest estimate we've received to date, and with no apparent intention to negotiate. So it looks like we've got another battle on our hands .... more stress .... maybe we should have stayed at home!
Crew Contribution from Andrew and Fiona
Thanks so much to Debra and Paul for an amazing holiday on board such a wonderful boat Pandora and letting us share in a little bit of their Caribbean experience. We have experienced so much. Firstly gusting force 8 near gale force winds and high waves including a couple of 20 feet waves in short succession which led to an exhilirating sail riding the waves from Martinique to Dominica - second attempt. Bit nerve racking but complete faith in Paul and Debra although I was thinking at some points we had not had the emergency briefing!! We also experienced a Harrison Ford type adventure clambering boulders along a river in a beautiful rainforest to get to a 170 feet waterfall in Dominica. Paul and Andrew braved the fury of the downforce of the waterfall, the spray and the noise to go behind the waterfall (which involved diving into the water and then up behind it). All we could hear was lots of screaming and did not know if this was cries for help or pleasure(!) and were quite relieved to see them reappear only to see them then scrambling up the rocks at the side of the waterfall to jump 25 feet into the fall. They were guided in these exploits by our guide Octavius (French for Octapus otherwise known as Sea Cat locally). As well as this brilliant hike up to the waterfall he drove us round the south part of the island and seemed to know everyone. He kept stopping and diving into the bushes to come back with some berry, fruit or nut to taste. The boys liked trying "moonshine" - a local distillation made in Meunshen. The only other person drinking at the bar giving us funny looks was, we were informed later, the local policeman off duty! On the topic of alcohol we have loved the rum cocktails especially having them on the deck watching for the 'green' flash as the sun disappears behind the water (the last vestiage of the sun) but all we got was the Paul Witting flash with Debra's "little brother" muscling in! These are just a few of the highlights. Debra and Paul have been fantastic hosts, great company and are very proficient sailors. We were delighted to be with Paul when he achieved his 2500 miles as a skipper target, making him eligible to take his yachtmaster practical qualification. We are very sorry to be leaving and wish Debra and Paul all the best and a calmer time for the rest of their adventure.
As Paul has mentioned on his blog, we're both feeling very despondent with all the technology problems we've had to survive on the trip, and of course the two impacts and continuing bad conditions. We know that boats go wrong and anchors drag ... in fact sailors should have that expectation ... but even long-term cruisers we've got to know out here think we've had far more than our share of bad luck. Sadly our indomitable spirit is starting to flag a bit but "c'est la vie" I guess .... a bit of French seeing as we're effectively in France at the moment.
On the positive side of things, we enjoyed a great 9 days with Fiona and Andrew and were sad to see them leave. Probably the highlight for us all was the trek to Victoria Falls in Dominica, a challenging adventure that involved crossing a fast-flowing river 5 times each way, leaping from boulder to boulder. Not always enjoyable at the time but a real sense of achievement at the end of it. And then we had lunch in a Rasta's shack ... eating a delicious vegetable stew (Rastas are vegetarians) out of calabash bowls with a coconut shell spoon, accompanied by pan-fried balou (a local fish) ... all very authentic and tasty.
So now we're continuing north to Antigua once the electrics are fixed where we've got a few weeks to try to sort out the paintwork repairs caused in the two anchor-dragging impacts. The boat's insurers are not playing ball, offering only 25% of the lowest estimate we've received to date, and with no apparent intention to negotiate. So it looks like we've got another battle on our hands .... more stress .... maybe we should have stayed at home!
Crew Contribution from Andrew and Fiona
Thanks so much to Debra and Paul for an amazing holiday on board such a wonderful boat Pandora and letting us share in a little bit of their Caribbean experience. We have experienced so much. Firstly gusting force 8 near gale force winds and high waves including a couple of 20 feet waves in short succession which led to an exhilirating sail riding the waves from Martinique to Dominica - second attempt. Bit nerve racking but complete faith in Paul and Debra although I was thinking at some points we had not had the emergency briefing!! We also experienced a Harrison Ford type adventure clambering boulders along a river in a beautiful rainforest to get to a 170 feet waterfall in Dominica. Paul and Andrew braved the fury of the downforce of the waterfall, the spray and the noise to go behind the waterfall (which involved diving into the water and then up behind it). All we could hear was lots of screaming and did not know if this was cries for help or pleasure(!) and were quite relieved to see them reappear only to see them then scrambling up the rocks at the side of the waterfall to jump 25 feet into the fall. They were guided in these exploits by our guide Octavius (French for Octapus otherwise known as Sea Cat locally). As well as this brilliant hike up to the waterfall he drove us round the south part of the island and seemed to know everyone. He kept stopping and diving into the bushes to come back with some berry, fruit or nut to taste. The boys liked trying "moonshine" - a local distillation made in Meunshen. The only other person drinking at the bar giving us funny looks was, we were informed later, the local policeman off duty! On the topic of alcohol we have loved the rum cocktails especially having them on the deck watching for the 'green' flash as the sun disappears behind the water (the last vestiage of the sun) but all we got was the Paul Witting flash with Debra's "little brother" muscling in! These are just a few of the highlights. Debra and Paul have been fantastic hosts, great company and are very proficient sailors. We were delighted to be with Paul when he achieved his 2500 miles as a skipper target, making him eligible to take his yachtmaster practical qualification. We are very sorry to be leaving and wish Debra and Paul all the best and a calmer time for the rest of their adventure.
[Captains Blog] Point a Pitre, Guadeloupe
Dolphins are like number 11 buses - you don't see one for several weeks, and then several come by in quick succession. We have seen three pods now, each one larger than the last, coming within the space of 8 days. Yesterday we had the largest pod yet pass us by on our way through to Les Saintes where we went to anchor only to find the anchor circuit had failed and we couldn't drop the hook. After failing to get the circuit working again, we managed to get onto a water buoy (where you tie up to refill your tanks) where we stayed the night.
Anyway, back to the pod, there were close to 100 or more dolphins together and we managed to capture some of them on video film which was a real bonus. On one of our recent journeys up the leeward side of the island where the waters were calmer, we were blessed with a pod that swam by us leaping out of the water right alongside the cockpit. It was almost as though they wanted to get a good look at us as they passed, and having achieved that, they were on their way in search of food. For the few seconds that they graced us with their company, it was a magical sight. Debra was also lucky enough to see another whale off the coast of Martinique - well the tail flukes at least - but I missed that being on helming duty at the time.
The same can be said for the elusive 'green flash' that comes as the sun disappears over the horizon. Most people don't know it is there, but we have seen it several times and we never tire of looking for it. It is one of those 'blink and you miss it' events but it really does exist, and the sun turns from orange/red to bright green just for an instant, then it is gone behind the horizon and you are back to the orange hue it leaves behind. The speed of the descent towards the water is also remarkable at this latitude - it takes about one minute from the time that the bottom of the sun touches the horizon, to disappearing behind it completely.
For those out there that like geography, the topography of these volcanic islands is utterly stunning. Valleys that are so steeply sided that they look as though the island has been split by the forces welling up under the earth's crust are numerous; the lava flows that have been reclaimed by the lush green vegetation but that I can imagine making their molten way down the sides of the volcanoes can still be seen in striking detail. In addition to this amazing landscape, the superb waterfalls, hot springs, boiling lakes, and sulphur pools that smell of rotten eggs all add to the wonderful field trip we are on. Isn't nature amazing? I feel very privileged to have seen it like this.
Shame about the technology, the boat seems to be jinxed and we have had more than our fill of problems. This one involves the circuit that only operates when the engine is running (i.e. the anchor windlass and the bow thruster) which narrows it down a bit, but it is beyond my electrical capabilities. Incidentally, the more I think about it, the one thing you absolutely need to function if the engine fails for any reason is the anchor winch so that you can get yourself stable and out of trouble. It needs to be altered. Whoever thought of tying the anchor control into the alternator output circuit obviously wasn't a sailor. We've had to go to a marina in Point a Pitre to get the circuit repaired as we cannot anchor manually which is a real bind, and moorings appear to be non-existent on Guadeloupe so that's where we headed this morning. Afternoon relaxing, waiting for the man who might never arrive to fix the electrics ....
Anyway, back to the pod, there were close to 100 or more dolphins together and we managed to capture some of them on video film which was a real bonus. On one of our recent journeys up the leeward side of the island where the waters were calmer, we were blessed with a pod that swam by us leaping out of the water right alongside the cockpit. It was almost as though they wanted to get a good look at us as they passed, and having achieved that, they were on their way in search of food. For the few seconds that they graced us with their company, it was a magical sight. Debra was also lucky enough to see another whale off the coast of Martinique - well the tail flukes at least - but I missed that being on helming duty at the time.
The same can be said for the elusive 'green flash' that comes as the sun disappears over the horizon. Most people don't know it is there, but we have seen it several times and we never tire of looking for it. It is one of those 'blink and you miss it' events but it really does exist, and the sun turns from orange/red to bright green just for an instant, then it is gone behind the horizon and you are back to the orange hue it leaves behind. The speed of the descent towards the water is also remarkable at this latitude - it takes about one minute from the time that the bottom of the sun touches the horizon, to disappearing behind it completely.
For those out there that like geography, the topography of these volcanic islands is utterly stunning. Valleys that are so steeply sided that they look as though the island has been split by the forces welling up under the earth's crust are numerous; the lava flows that have been reclaimed by the lush green vegetation but that I can imagine making their molten way down the sides of the volcanoes can still be seen in striking detail. In addition to this amazing landscape, the superb waterfalls, hot springs, boiling lakes, and sulphur pools that smell of rotten eggs all add to the wonderful field trip we are on. Isn't nature amazing? I feel very privileged to have seen it like this.
Shame about the technology, the boat seems to be jinxed and we have had more than our fill of problems. This one involves the circuit that only operates when the engine is running (i.e. the anchor windlass and the bow thruster) which narrows it down a bit, but it is beyond my electrical capabilities. Incidentally, the more I think about it, the one thing you absolutely need to function if the engine fails for any reason is the anchor winch so that you can get yourself stable and out of trouble. It needs to be altered. Whoever thought of tying the anchor control into the alternator output circuit obviously wasn't a sailor. We've had to go to a marina in Point a Pitre to get the circuit repaired as we cannot anchor manually which is a real bind, and moorings appear to be non-existent on Guadeloupe so that's where we headed this morning. Afternoon relaxing, waiting for the man who might never arrive to fix the electrics ....
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